volcanic loire
If we’re going to talk about wines produced from 11 hectares of vineyards on and around a volcano, then we're going to talk about terroir. In fact, when the wines are named after the extinct volcano that lovingly watches over those vineyards we are essentially being led by the hand into a discussion about minerality. Gilles Bonnefoy’s biodynamic vineyards are situated in what is starting to be marketed as the “Volcanic Loire.” At the upstream end of the Loire Valley, in the appellation of Côtes du Forez, you will find Champdieu, the heart of the highest-altitude vineyards on the river.
unique notes of minerality
Bonnefoy’s focus lies in Gamay but he also produces a solid range of rosé, white and sparkling under the IGP Urfé. The reds are bottled from different soils on and around the volcano of the ‘Madone’, which include ‘Granit du Forez,’ ‘Migmatites de Montbrison’ (a granite which contains migmatite with clay and mica,) and basalt, a volcanic rock containing iron and magnesium. Along with the obvious unique notes of minerality, Bonnefoy’s red wines radiate energy with red and black fruit ripeness, refreshing acidity, subtle savoury notes and intense, lip-smacking joy. Think fleshy Beaujolais with a cool, stony edge.
‘volcan de la madone.’
Starting with rented old vine plots in 1997, Gilles and his small team continued to grow the estate by planting on the slopes of ‘Volcan de la Madone.’ They started organic practices in 2001 and received Demeter certification in 2009. The grapes are hand harvested and the wines are made with little to no sulphur additions. They are natural wines at their best; clean and beautiful expressions of the region’s terroir and unique Gamay varietals.
